Saturday, February 11, 2017

Aftermarket / Chipped ECU

Aftermarket ECU

SpoonP73-0030-Z1, etc.
J's RacingP73
  • all versions not compatible
  • S300 does not support data transfer via diagnostic connector
  • K-Pro not physically compatible with current Hondash Bluetooth scanner

  • *Hondata ECUs equipped with an internal Bluetooth transmitter will be supported in future Hondash app version, coming Q3 2020
  • AEM
  • Link
  • Apex'i Power FC

  • Chipped Honda ECU

    In case of chipped ECUs (P06, P08, P27, P28, P30, P75 etc.), compatibility with Hondash depends on:

    ROM Editors

    ROM EditorCompatibleRemarks
  • classic version (gold version may not be compatible, feel free to give us a feedback)
  • datalogger plugin (Plugins » Enhancements » Quick Datalogger + RTP) must NOT be added to the map (ROM) before flashing a chip
  • Ectune, Neptune, HTS
  • employed datalogging solution circumvents the OEM diagnostic connector
    and relies on custom full duplex interfacing with proprietary communication protocol
  • possibility of compatibility with official Hondash Bluetooth scanner is under investigation


    • jumper J12 (or J4) must be located on the PCB, usually in a form of a resistor (zero ohm resistor ). If it was removed or cut by you or previous car owner or person tuning your ECU, replace the missing component with a simple wire (see pictures)
      • P28, P30 (non-JDM rectangular ECU): J12 jumper
        hondash J12 jumper 1
        J12 - missing jumper replaced with a wire
        hondash J12 jumper 2
        J12 - factory stock original zero ohm resistor / jumper
      • P30 (JDM square ECU): J4 jumper
        hondash J4 jumper
        J4 - missing jumper replaced with a wire
    • jumper J1 must be connected in order to use an external modified map (ROM) stored on a EEPROM chip.
      However if the pcb jumper J12 (or J4) is connected as described above and you're still not able to get Hondash to communicate (due to used incompatible Rom editor) and you want to restore compatibility with Hondash at any cost, just remove jumper J1. Main processor should fall back to using an internal stock map (ROM) instead of external one stored on EEPROM chip. Some users also install a switch instead of J1 jumper to switch between internal(stock) and external(modified) maps on the fly.
      Please be advised, if your engine is heavily modified (high lift cams, turbo, etc.) it's not recommended to run it on a stock map outside of low engine load conditions (idle, part throttle), take actions at your own risk.
      hondash J1 jumper
      J1 jumper

    OBD2A/B to OBD1 conversion harnesses

    • make sure that the communication 5 V wire in DLC diagnostic connector is correctly connected to the ECU pin D7 (described as "K-line" or "TXD+RXD") by tracing it manually using multimeter's continuity test
    • there are a couple of pins that output 5 volts, tracing the wire physically and making sure it's the correct one is mandatory, because it can read 5 volts even if it's connected to a wrong pin
      hondash bluetooth interface obd1 ecu pinout
      pin-out diagram for A-B-D 3-plug OBD1 ECU version

    Manual wiring

    • Use following references to wire the scanner manually in case you're using a OBD1 ECU on a car that doesn't have the 3 pin DLC connector available in the harness (e.g. OBD0 ('88-'91) to OBD1 ECU conversion, OBD2 ('01-, US '96-) to OBD1 ECU conversion).
      • Communication - connect to the communication pin D7 ("TXD/RXD (K-Line) - DLC diagnostic data link", see OBD1 ECU pinout)
      • Power - connect to any 12 V power source (alternative power feed option)
      • Ground - connect to any ground (chassis ground, etc.)