Aftermarket ECU
| Brand | Compatible | Remarks |
|---|---|---|
| Spoon | ✔ | P73-0030-Z1, etc. |
| J's Racing | ✔ | P73 |
| Feel's | ✔ | P73 |
| Mugen | ✘ | P73 |
| AEM | ✘ | |
| Link | ✘ | |
| Apex'i Power FC | ✘ | |
| Hondata | ✘ |
*Hondata ECUs equipped with an internal Bluetooth transmitter will be supported in future Hondash app version, coming Q3 2020 |
Chipped Honda ECU
In case of chipped ECUs (P06, P08, P27, P28, P30, P75 etc.), compatibility with Hondash depends on the following points:
- ROM editor
- pcb jumpers
- correctly wired OBD2A/B to OBD1 conversion harnesses (if applicable)
WARNING
You must check all points to make sure you're compliant! It's not enough just to check jumpers and assume everything else is correct. In 90% cases, if you have to put back the jumpers, your chip is probably already flashed with an incompatible ROM, which won't work with Hondash. In such case you must reflash the chip again with a compatible ROM according to the guide for ROM editors!1. ROM Editors
| ROM Editor | Compatible | Remarks |
|---|---|---|
| Crome | ✔ |
|
| Ectune, Neptune, HTS | ✘ |
and relies on custom full duplex interfacing with proprietary communication protocol |
2. JUMPERS
- jumper J12 (or J4) must be located on the PCB, usually in a form of a resistor (zero ohm resistor
). If it was removed or cut by you or previous car owner or person tuning your ECU, replace the missing component with a simple wire (see pictures). Then make sure your ROM is compatible, if it's not, reflash it again according to the guide for ROM editors!
- P28, P30 (non-JDM rectangular ECU): J12 jumper
J12 - missing jumper replaced with a wire
J12 - factory stock original zero ohm resistor / jumper - P30 (JDM square ECU): J4 jumper
J4 - missing jumper replaced with a wire
- P28, P30 (non-JDM rectangular ECU): J12 jumper
- jumper J1 must be connected in order to use an external modified map (ROM) stored on a EEPROM chip.
However if the pcb jumper J12 (or J4) is connected as described above and you're still not able to get Hondash to communicate (due to used incompatible Rom editor) and you want to restore compatibility with Hondash at any cost, just remove jumper J1. Main processor should fall back to using an internal stock map (ROM) instead of external one stored on EEPROM chip. Some users also install a switch instead of J1 jumper to switch between internal(stock) and external(modified) maps on the fly.
Please be advised, if your engine is heavily modified (high lift cams, turbo, etc.) it's not recommended to run it on a stock map outside of low engine load conditions (idle, part throttle), take actions at your own risk.
If you had to cut the J1 jumper to get Hondash to work, it proves that the flashed ROM is incompatible and you must reflash the chip again according to the guide for ROM editors!
J1 jumper
3. OBD2A/B to OBD1 conversion harnesses
- make sure that the communication 5 V wire in DLC diagnostic connector is correctly connected to the ECU pin D7 (described as "K-line" or "TXD+RXD") by tracing it manually using multimeter's continuity test
- there are a couple of pins that output 5 volts, tracing the wire physically and making sure it's the correct one is mandatory, because it can read 5 volts even if it's connected to a wrong pin
pin-out diagram for A-B-D 3-plug OBD1 ECU version
Manual wiring
- Use following references to wire the scanner manually in case you're using a OBD1 ECU on a car that doesn't have the 3 pin DLC connector available in the harness (e.g. OBD0 ('88-'91) to OBD1 ECU conversion, OBD2 ('01-, US '96-) to OBD1 ECU conversion).
- Communication - connect to the communication pin D7 ("TXD/RXD (K-Line) - DLC diagnostic data link", see OBD1 ECU pinout)
- Power - connect to any 12 V power source (alternative power feed option)
- Ground - connect to any ground (chassis ground, etc.)
