Aftermarket / Chipped / Swapped ECU

Aftermarket ECU

Brand	Compatible	Remarks
Spoon	✔	P73-0030-Z1, etc.
J's Racing	✔	P73
Feel's	✔	P73
Mugen	✘	P73
AEM	✘
Link	✘
Apex'i Power FC	✘
Hondata	✘	all versions not compatible S300 does not support data transfer via diagnostic connector K-Pro not physically compatible with current Hondash Bluetooth scanner *Hondata ECUs that are equipped with an internal Bluetooth transmitter (S300 V3, V4 | KPro V3, V4) will be supported in future Hondash app version, coming Q2 2022. (The app will connect and communicate directly via the Hondata's internal Bluetooth transmitter, instead of the Hondash Bluetooth scanner, which can not be used for communication due to an inherent incompatibility.)

Chipped Honda ECU

In case of chipped ECUs (P06, P08, P27, P28, P30, P75 etc.), compatibility with Hondash depends on the following points:

1. ROM editor
2. pcb jumpers
3. correctly wired OBD2A/B to OBD1 conversion harness (if applicable)

WARNING

You must check all points to make sure you're compliant! It's not enough just to check jumpers and assume everything else is correct. In 90% cases, if you have to put back the jumpers, your chip is probably already flashed with an incompatible ROM, which won't work with Hondash. In such case you must reflash the chip again with a compatible ROM according to the guide for ROM editors!

1. ROM Editors / ECU tuning software solutions

   
   

   ROM Editor	Compatible	Requirements
   Crome	✔	classic version (gold version may not be compatible, feel free to give us a feedback) datalogger plugin (Plugins » Enhancements » Quick Datalogger + RTP) must not be added to the map (ROM) before flashing a chip (the plugin overrides the original communication implementation and renders the diagnostic connector unusable)
   Ectune Neptune HTS	✘	does not support half-duplex communication for data transmission, originally implemented by Honda on factory stock ECU not possible to use the official Hondash OBD Bluetooth scanner (due to ECU's buffer overflow causing the ECU to reset itself), unless the developers of these tuning sofware solutions make the half-duplex communication as an optional method for communication




2. Jumpers

   • jumper J12 (or J4) must be located on the PCB, usually as a resistor (zero ohm resistor ). If it was removed or cut by you or previous car owner or person tuning your ECU, replace the missing component with a simple wire (see pictures). Then make sure your ROM is compatible, if it's not, reflash it again according to the guide for ROM editors!
     • P28, P30 (non-JDM rectangular ECU): J12 jumper
       
       
       

       J12 - missing jumper replaced with a wire

       
       

       J12 - factory stock original zero ohm resistor / jumper
     • P30 (JDM square ECU): J4 jumper
       
       

       J4 - missing jumper replaced with a wire
   • jumper J1 must be connected in order to use an external modified map (ROM) stored on a EEPROM chip.
     However if the pcb jumper J12 (or J4) is connected as described above and you're still not able to get Hondash to communicate (due to used incompatible Rom editor) and you want to restore compatibility with Hondash at any cost, just remove jumper J1. Main processor should fall back to using an internal stock map (ROM) instead of external one stored on EEPROM chip. Some users also install a switch instead of J1 jumper to switch between internal(stock) and external(modified) maps on the fly.
     Please be advised, if your engine is heavily modified (high lift cams, turbo, etc.) it's not recommended to run it on a stock map outside of low engine load conditions (idle, part throttle), take actions at your own risk.
     If you had to cut the J1 jumper to get Hondash to work, it proves that the flashed ROM is incompatible and you must reflash the chip again according to the guide for ROM editors!
     

     J1 jumper

3. OBD2A/B to OBD1 conversion

   • if you're using a conversion wiring harness (OBD2A/B to OBD1 conversion) make sure it's wired correctly

Wiring harness (OBD2A/B to OBD1 conversion, full engine and ECU swap, etc.)

• make sure that the communication 5 V wire in DLC diagnostic connector is correctly connected to the ECU communication pin by tracing it manually using multimeter's continuity test
• there are a couple of pins that output 5 volts, tracing the wire physically and making sure it's the correct one is mandatory, because it can read 5 volts even if it's connected to a wrong pin

Direct wiring (swapped Honda ECU, etc.)

• Use the following references to wire the scanner directly in case you swapped the stock ECU with an OBD1 ECU (all versions) or with an OBD2 A/B ECU (JDM, EU versions etc., excluding US versions!), in a car that doesn't have the 3 pin DLC connector available in the harness e.g. OBD0 '88-'91 (all markets), OBD2 '96-'01 (US market only).
  
  • Communication - connect to the communication pin designated as "TXD+RXD" or "K-Line" - i.e. DLC diagnostic data link:
    OBD1 ECU -> pin D7 (see OBD1 ECU pinout)
    OBD2 ECU -> (must not use US versions!) refer to a service manual (e.g. ECU P73 pin C8)
    (OBD2 US versions are incompatible, can be identified by letter "A" in the last 3 letters of the ECU id: 37820-P**-A**)
    

    

    pin-out diagram for A-B-D 3-plug OBD1 ECU version

  • Power - connect to any 12 V power source (alternative power feed option)
  • Ground - connect to any ground (chassis ground, etc.)