Saturday, February 11, 2017

Aftermarket / Chipped ECU

Aftermarket ECU


BrandCompatibleRemarks
Spoon✔P73-0030-Z1, etc.
J's Racing✔P73
Feel's✔P73
Mugen✘P73
AEM✘
Link✘
Apex'i Power FC✘
Hondata✘
  • all versions not compatible
  • S300 does not support data transfer via diagnostic connector
  • K-Pro not physically compatible with current Hondash Bluetooth scanner

    • *Hondata ECUs that are equipped with an internal Bluetooth transmitter (S300 V3, V4 | KPro V3, V4)
    will be supported in future Hondash app version, coming Q1/2 2021.
    (The app will connect and communicate directly via the Hondata's internal Bluetooth transmitter,
    instead of the Hondash Bluetooth scanner, which can not be used for communication due to an inherent incompatibility.)



    Chipped Honda ECU


    In case of chipped ECUs (P06, P08, P27, P28, P30, P75 etc.), compatibility with Hondash depends on the following points:
    1. ROM editor
    2. pcb jumpers
    3. correctly wired OBD2A/B to OBD1 conversion harnesses (if applicable)

    WARNING

    You must check all points to make sure you're compliant! It's not enough just to check jumpers and assume everything else is correct. In 90% cases, if you have to put back the jumpers, your chip is probably already flashed with an incompatible ROM, which won't work with Hondash. In such case you must reflash the chip again with a compatible ROM according to the guide for ROM editors!

    1. ROM Editors


    ROM EditorCompatibleRemarks
    Crome✔
  • classic version (gold version may not be compatible, feel free to give us a feedback)
  • datalogger plugin (Plugins » Enhancements » Quick Datalogger + RTP) must not be added to the map (ROM) before flashing a chip
    • Ectune, Neptune, HTS✘
  • employed datalogging solution circumvents the OEM diagnostic connector
    and relies on custom full duplex interfacing with proprietary communication protocol
  • possibility of compatibility with official Hondash Bluetooth scanner is under investigation


    • 2. JUMPERS

    • jumper J12 (or J4) must be located on the PCB, usually in a form of a resistor (zero ohm resistor ). If it was removed or cut by you or previous car owner or person tuning your ECU, replace the missing component with a simple wire (see pictures). Then make sure your ROM is compatible, if it's not, reflash it again according to the guide for ROM editors!
      • P28, P30 (non-JDM rectangular ECU): J12 jumper
        hondash J12 jumper 1
        J12 - missing jumper replaced with a wire
        hondash J12 jumper 2
        J12 - factory stock original zero ohm resistor / jumper
      • P30 (JDM square ECU): J4 jumper
        hondash J4 jumper
        J4 - missing jumper replaced with a wire
    • jumper J1 must be connected in order to use an external modified map (ROM) stored on a EEPROM chip.
      However if the pcb jumper J12 (or J4) is connected as described above and you're still not able to get Hondash to communicate (due to used incompatible Rom editor) and you want to restore compatibility with Hondash at any cost, just remove jumper J1. Main processor should fall back to using an internal stock map (ROM) instead of external one stored on EEPROM chip. Some users also install a switch instead of J1 jumper to switch between internal(stock) and external(modified) maps on the fly.
      Please be advised, if your engine is heavily modified (high lift cams, turbo, etc.) it's not recommended to run it on a stock map outside of low engine load conditions (idle, part throttle), take actions at your own risk.
      If you had to cut the J1 jumper to get Hondash to work, it proves that the flashed ROM is incompatible and you must reflash the chip again according to the guide for ROM editors!
      hondash J1 jumper
      J1 jumper

    3. OBD2A/B to OBD1 conversion harnesses

    • make sure that the communication 5 V wire in DLC diagnostic connector is correctly connected to the ECU pin D7 (described as "K-line" or "TXD+RXD") by tracing it manually using multimeter's continuity test
    • there are a couple of pins that output 5 volts, tracing the wire physically and making sure it's the correct one is mandatory, because it can read 5 volts even if it's connected to a wrong pin
      hondash bluetooth interface obd1 ecu pinout
      pin-out diagram for A-B-D 3-plug OBD1 ECU version



    Manual wiring

    • Use the following references to wire the scanner manually in case you've swapped the stock ECU with an OBD1 ECU (all versions) or an OBD2 A/B ECU (JDM versions), in a car that doesn't have a 3 pin DLC connector available in the harness (e.g. OBD0 '88-'91, OBD2 '01-, US '96-).
      • Communication - connect to the communication pin designated as "TXD+RXD" or "K-Line" - i.e. DLC diagnostic data link (OBD1 pin D7 - see OBD1 ECU pinout, for OBD2 refer to a service manual (e.g. P73 pin C8))
      • Power - connect to any 12 V power source (alternative power feed option)
      • Ground - connect to any ground (chassis ground, etc.)
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